Jou 12: Day 12 Lapli Pa Tonbe: The Rain Does Not Fall

Written June 16, 2012

Lapli Pa Tonbe: The Rain Does Not Fall

After 12 days in country, I feel like I have a solid start to my data collection. I have spent the majority of these days in a village near Anse Rouge, where I have performed more than 10 interviews and hours of observation. I have been fortunate enough to talk with a wide range of individuals, including rural farmers, maids, charcoal markers, charcoal distributors, men, women, young adults, and even a voodoo priest. Our conversations have covered ecosystem and social changes, loss of tree cover and its effects of life, differences in uses of trees over different areas, spiritual meanings of trees, and often overlooked uses of trees (medicine, shade, rituals).

Collecting data at a tree nursery

As is often the case in qualitative research, emergent topics have risen from the perspective of local peoples that I had not anticipated. Far and away the most common topic of conversation has been the lack of rain this year. Farming families that rely solely on rainfall for agriculture and tree planting have waited for the rainy season to bring life to their soil. And yet, the rain does not fall. Fields are dry, crops planted at historically reliable times have been burned by the sun, and people are increasingly feeling the effects as lapli pa tonbe. Local perspectives on why the rain does not fall has become an important aspect of my research.  While not known to the people of this area, I frequently think of the United States, the record forest fires in Colorado, the record droughts in Texas, and the record lows of water levels on many rivers in the West, and I cannot help but see a connection between it all.

Lack of rain poses difficulties for agriculture and livestock

Along with issues of rainfall and deforestation, we have discussed topics not directly related to my research, including the following:

-       Resteveks (the controversial process where children work for distant relatives for housing and food under questionable living conditions)

-       Experiences in US’s Guantanamo Bay prison

-       The different balances of Christianity and Voodoo in different regions

-       Salt production as a livelihood means

-       Tarantulas and scorpions

-       And what I have found particularly interesting: The Loup Garou. Literally translated as “wolf man” or “werewolf,” people have told me about how this creature actually takes the form of any animal (some claim it prefers to be a turkey) and can attack children at night. A couple individuals, in response to my repeated questions on the matter, joke that I am now the Loup Garou Slayer, here to rid their town of this shape-shifting beast.

 

A "baby" tarantula

When not tracking down beasts in the mountains, I have found time to connect with local peoples and fellow “blans.” The GSSE Team, TWP, and I have much work ahead of us, but the beginning to this time in Haiti has been more productive than I could have imagined.

Talking about charcoal